
- The cut of a diamond refers to its proportions. It is one of the most important factors to be considered while choosing your diamond. It is an aspect which is directly influenced by man. The other three are influenced totally by nature.
- The cut of a diamond should not be confused with its shape. Shapes are cut from the original rough diamond, and whatever the shape, a well-cut diamond is always better able to reflect light.
- Diamonds are usually cut with 58 facets, or separate flat surfaces. These facets are placed at precise angles to each other. This relationship is designed to maximize the amount of light reflected through the diamond and to increase its beauty.
- Rough stones can be cut to their maximum weight and monetary value but loses some "brilliance and "sparkle". Similarly rough stones can also be cut into the most beautiful stone, despite heavy weight loss and lowered monetary value.

1 Well Cut :
When a diamond is cut to proper proportions and light is reflected from one facet to another and then dispersed through the top of the stone. Within the well cut standards are the ideal, excellent and very good categories.
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Ideal Cut: This Cut combines the best in brilliance and fire.
Excellent Cut: Exhibits great beauty yet with a slight flexibility of percentages.
Very Good Cut: This range of cut balances precise proportions and price considerations.
2 Deep Cut :
If a diamond is cut too deep, light escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion.
3 Shallow Cut :
With a shallow cut, light escapes through the pavilion before it can be reflected.

The cut or proportions of a diamond is measured in percentages relative to the diameter of its girdle. The girdle diameter is always considered to be 100%. Supposing the Girdle diameter is 100%, the table is 5.6mm and the total depth is 6.1mm. Thus the diamond has a table of 56% and depth of 61%
CLARITY
The clarity of a diamond refers to how clear, or "clean" the diamond is. Diamonds have imperfections which are present in its rough state. The clarity scale is a measure of the severity of those imperfections or "inclusions" as it is known in the trade.
In addition to internal inclusions, surface irregularities are referred to as blemishes. These two categories of imperfections-inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external)-make up clarity. The fewer the imperfections, the rarer and more valuable the diamond.
Clarity is graded using a very precise and complex method of evaluating the size, location, and visibility of inclusions.
Clarity Scale
FL
IF Flawless- Internally Flawless
VVS1
VVS2 Very Very Slightly Imperfect
VS1
VS2 Very Slightly Imperfect
SI1
SI2 Slightly Imperfect
I1
I2
I3 Imperfect
Clarity is a measure of internal structural imperfections called "inclusions". Grades of clarity, which are mostly those used by Gemological Institute of America (GIA), are:
FL-Flawless:
Shows no inclusions or blemishes of any sort under 10 x magnifications when observed by an experienced grader.
IF-Internally Flawless:
Have no inclusions when examined by an experienced grader, but will have some minor blemishes.
VVS1, VVS2 - Very Very Slightly Imperfect:
Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10x magnification.
VS1, VS2 - Very Slightly Imperfect:
Contains minute inclusions such as crystals, clouds or feathers when observed with effort under 10x magnification.
SI1, SI2 - Slightly Imperfect:
Contains inclusions such as cavities, knots clouds, feathers and included crystals which are noticeable to an experienced grader.
I1, I2, I3 - Imperfect:
Contains inclusions such as large feathers or large included crystals, which are obvious under a 10x magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.
COLOR
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The best color is no color at all. Diamonds allow light to be reflected and dispersed as a rainbow of color. This light dispersion, or color flash, has no effect on the technical grading of color.
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The absolute finest colorless stone carries a D rating, descending through each letter of the alphabet to Z, designating a diamond of light yellow, brown, or gray. This body color may be caused by the presence of trace elements, such as nitrogen, within the atomic framework of the carbon crystal.
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As the body color becomes more intense, the grade for color descends the scale. It is always best to compare diamonds graded by either the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the American Gem Society (AGS) for accurate color grading.
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For best buy option regarding color it is recommended to go for a diamond with a color grade of K or better.
CARATS
- The weight of a diamond is expressed in carats. The word carat originated from the carob tree or Ceratonia siliqua. The tiny seeds of this tree are well known for their uniformity and consistent weight. Traditionally diamonds and gemstones were weighed against these seeds until the system was standardized, and one carat was fixed at 0.2 grams.
- One carat is divided into 100 points. A diamond weighing one quarter of a carat can also be described as weighing 25 points or 0.25 carats. Points are generally not used to describe weights over one carat.
- It is very important not to mistake carat weight as referring to the dimensions of a diamond. It refers to weight only.
- Prices of diamonds are expressed as price per carat. So when we say that carat weight has the biggest impact on the price of the stone, it refers to the unit price per carat, and not just the whole price of the stone.
- Example:
Diamond "A" = 0.25 carats and costs $1,000 per carat. $1,000 x 0.25 = $250/stone
Size of a diamond Vs Rarity:
The rarity of a diamond is greatly affected by its size. The rarity of a 1.00 carat diamond is much greater than twice that of a .50 carat. Although it only weighs twice as much, the 1.00 carat is statistically much more difficult (rare) to mine than the .50 carat.
COST
The most important "C" you have to think about is COST. The few times you usually hear about cost, it is usually as a "salary guideline" or "buying tips" which may include "advice" to spend about two months salary on a diamond engagement ring.
Effect of each "C" on the cost:
Carat:
A Diamond of color G and SI1 Clarity grade will have a certain category of pricing when its range lies between 0.50 - 0.69 carats. When you take that same quality Diamond and increase its size to the next price category, which is the 0.70 - 0.89 carat range, the price increase will be approximately $1,100 per carat . If we further increase to the 0.90 - 0.99 carat range, the price increase will be approximately another $800 per carat . A further increase to 1.00 - 1.49 carat range, and the increase will be approximately another $800 per carat . A final increase to the 1.50 - 1.99 carat range, will increase the price per carat to $1200.
Color:
Supposing you have selected a 1.00 carat Diamond of K color and VS1 Clarity. If you move up to an H color, you will pay approximately an extra $1,700 per carat . By moving up to F color, the increase will be approximately $1,100 per carat . Again an improvement to D color will result in another increase of $900 per carat.
Clarity:
Starting with a 1.00 carat Diamond of G color and SI1 Clarity, if you move up to a VS1 grade you will pay approximately an extra $1000 per carat . Move up to VVS1, the increase will be approximately $700 per carat . Improve the clarity to IF and the increase will be approximately $700 per carat .
Cut:
Cut is a bit more complicated and depends on various factors, like the quality of Diamond being considered. Ideal cuts are generally much more expensive than the others. It all comes down on the quality of the cut, but lots of ceases have to be studied before making a final decision.
Finally we can see that a diamond's per carat price goes up when we go for higher clarity or better color grades. The price is also affected by the choice of carat range.
Identifying a Well Cut Diamond?
In defining the best cut, personal preference will always be an issue. So the listed category Well Cut, Very Good, Excellent & Ideal assists you in selecting the right diamond. Ideal cut has the narrowest range, with Excellent and Very Good following later. The lowest score becomes the overall cut grade. The lowest assigned grade for any individual characteristic is always used. For e.g. If the table percentage falls within excellent and yet the depth percentage is in the very good range, the diamond is classified as Very Good.
Every shape of diamonds does not have the same proportions. Every diamond shape requires its own guidelines in order to achieve maximum beauty. Due to mathematical differences, inherent in different shapes, the table and depth guidelines are formulated to maximize fire & brilliance. This is done to have a magnificent display that highlights the individuality and character of each shape.
Girdle:
The girdle is the outer edge of a diamond. It usually has a frosted appearance. Many diamonds are also finished with a fully polished or even a faceted girdle. This characteristic does not affect the value of a diamond and is often more a reflection the diamond cutter's preference. The girdle is rated in terms of thickness. Girdle size is generally defined as Extremely Thin, Very Thin, Thin, Medium, Slightly Thick, Thick, Very Thick, or Extremely Thick. The girdle can also be described as a range of these terms such as Thin to Thick. Avoid the two Extremes. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a girdle that is neither Extremely Thin nor Extremely Thick.
Culet:
The culet is the bottom point of the diamond. In many cases this point actually has a very small facet. The culet is referred to in terms that relate to the presence or size of this facet. The culet is generally graded as None or Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large, and Extremely Large. Smaller is more desirable.
Polish:
This characteristic refers to the finishing or final polishing of the facets, or flat surfaces. Contrary to common belief, diamonds are ground and polished, not chipped away, until they reach their final form. Each facet should be carefully fashioned by the diamond cutter to shine and be free from polishing imperfections. The polish of a diamond is generally defined as Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a polishing grade of Good or above.
Symmetry:
This characteristic refers to the alignment and positioning of the facets, or flat surfaces. Each facet should be carefully positioned by the diamond cutter in proper proportion and relationship to the other facets. The alignment of each facet should be sharp and precise; improperly joined facet junctions can make a diamond appear uneven. The symmetry of a diamond is generally defined as Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a symmetry grade of Good or above.
Fluorescence:
This characteristic refers to the diamond's ability to fluoresce under ultraviolet light. When exposed to UV light, many diamonds will give off a distinctive glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be displayed in various shades, blue is the most common in diamonds. The fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its intensity as either None, Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong. Most of the time fluorescence isn't an issue unless the intensity is Strong or Very Strong. In the very high colors D, E, and F, Strong fluorescence is considered less desirable. Ironically, in slightly lower colors of J and below, Strong fluorescence is desirable.
FAMOUS DIAMOND
Today a handful of diamonds have come to be known as symbols of history, legacy and magical lore. They own grand names to mark their significance and behind each of these spectacular diamonds lay a rich, magnificent story of history, discovery and technical achievement.

De Beers Millennium Star
A diamond so flawless and so great in size that the world's diamond experts cannot put a price on it. Discovered in the Republic of the Congo , De Beers mined the Star in the early nineties. It took over three years for their diamond cutters to shape the stone with lasers. What emerged was the world's only internally and externally flawless, 203-carat, pear-shaped diamond.

The Koh-i-Noor
No stone on earth has as rich and fascinating a history as the Koh-i-noor. The lineage of this great diamond began in 1304 when it was held by the Rajah of Malwa. This was a time when possession of such a gem symbolized the power of an empire. In fact, it has been said that he who owns the Koh-i-noor rules the world. In 1738, after successfully invading Delhi , the next conquest of Nadir Shah of Persia was to acquire the great stone. Legend has it that a member of Emperor Mohammed Shah's harem informed Nadir Shah that the jewel was kept hidden in the emperor's turban.
Later that night, when Nadir Sha h unfolded the host's turban he discovered the gem. Upon seeing it he exclaimed, "Koh-i-noor," meaning "mountain of light." Nadir Shah then brought the jewel back to Persia . There it remained until 1849 when the British annexed the Punjab and took possession of it.
Three years later, after a public viewing in London , crowds expressed disappointment in the lack of brilliance in the stone. So it was decided that the gem be re-cut to accentuate its brilliance, thereby reducing its size from the 186-carat diamond to its present size of 108.93-carats.
In 1853, there was some question as to whether Queen Victoria would return the grand stone for fear of the misfortune it was rumored to bring. She answered the query by having it mounted in a tiara, joining more than two thousand other royal diamonds.
Toady the legal ownership of the Koh-i-Noor still remains a wrangle among world leaders vying for its possession.

The Centenary Diamond
The discovery of the Centenary diamond was made official in 1988, on the eve of De Beers's one-hundredth anniversary. In fact, it was during the banquet celebrating the company's centennial mark that the discovery of the perfectly colored, 599-carat diamond was first announced to the public. The diamond was discovered when De Beers' laser equipment detected a large mass in one of the walls of its mines. The mass resembled an irregular matchbox whose largest flat surface was concave. To complicate matters, the planes of this stone were angular and there was a horn protruding from the top. In order to bring this mass to life as a polished diamond, a master cutter had to be found. The irregular shape of the rough stone meant that only the most skilled craftsman would be able to reveal the diamond's inner beauty without ruining the stone completely.
De Beers commissioned Gabi Tolkowsky, one of the world's most renowned stone cutters. His first decision had to be where and how to cut. He finally decided that, in spite of its unusual proportions, he would cut it as one single, large diamond. One hundred and fifty-four days later, Tolkowsy had removed fifty carats of the magnificent stone. What remained of the original "matchbox" stone was a 520-carat diamond. This diamond remains as the largest modern cut diamond in the world today.


Cullinan
In 1905, as miners filed out after a long day in South Africa 's Premier mine, one miner noticed what appeared to be a shiny object lodged in the earth. With nothing more than a pocket knife, he pried it lose from the ground and presented it to his mine manager. This humble discovery is regarded today as one of the greatest diamond discoveries of all time.
When no buyers were found for the great stone, it was decided that the diamond would be made into a gift for King Edward VII of England . It was decided that the great stone would be cut into two smaller stones: Cullinan I and Cullinan II. The larger of the two (Cullinan I) was renamed the "Great Star of Africa." The cutting of the Cullinan was so successful that the two new gems became part of the Crown Jewels of England .The Cullinan II, humbly measuring 1.7 x 1.5 inches, was handsomely set in the brow of the British Imperial State Crown.

The Taylor Burton
Richard Burton presented Elizabeth Taylor with one of the world's largest and most beautiful diamonds. If any gem could be noticed next to the beauty of Elizabeth Taylor it was this 69-carat, pear-shaped diamond.
The stone was unearthed at the Premier mine of South Africa in 1966. And it was Harry Winston who cut and polished the rough stone from its original size of 244-carats. It has been moving in and out of auction houses, and the last recorded sale was to an anonymous Saudi buyer for $3,000,000.

The De Beers Diamond
It was not long after De Beers Corporation set about the business of mining diamonds that their first major discovery surfaced. A stone weighing 428.5-carats was unearthed from the Kimberly mines of South Africa . At 228.5 carats after its polishing it was thought to be the worlds largest cut diamond in 1889. It has the honor of being the fourth largest cut diamond in the world.