How To Choose Your Diamond

How to choose your Diamond

Diamonds on Fifth will make sure you have a good understanding of what you are buying to help you make the right decision.

How To Choose Your Diamond

Cut Color Clarity Carat Weight Certificate Care Cost
At Diamonds on Fifth we make it our mission to fully equip you with the knowledge you need to make an educated purchase. A basic understanding of the 4 C’s cut, color, clarity and carat weight-of diamonds, will enhance your buying experience and ensure that you’ll be ready to choose the diamond that’s right for you.
The cut of a diamond, which is its angles, shapes and proportions, has an important impact on the sparkle and brilliance of a diamond. Although a diamond may have perfect color and clarity, a poor cut can make a diamond look dull, while an expertly cut diamond will optimize the natural radiance of a diamond. Diamonds on Fifth carries only the highest grades of diamond cut, to ensure the most sparkle. Learn how to select the right diamond cut with the most brilliance for your budget.		Diamonds are judged by their color or lack thereof. Diamonds with very little color are highly prized and priced accordingly. Even a little color can diminish the brilliance of a diamond. To help you choose the most brilliant diamond, Diamonds on Fifth offers diamonds with only the highest grades of color. Learn how to select a colorless or near colorless diamond to ensure the most brilliance for your budget.
The “carat” is a unit of measurement used to weigh diamonds. Since larger diamonds are more rare than smaller diamonds, diamond value tends to rise exponentially with carat weight. Although a higher carat weight may increase its rarity and value, the cut, color and clarity of the diamond greatly influences the price. Small diamonds can be more expensive than larger stones if the other 3 C’s rate highly.		Diamonds with few flaws or inclusions are very rare and highly valued. Clarity is graded based on the number, location, size and type of the inclusions found in a diamond. Diamonds on Fifth offers some of the clearest diamonds available. Learn how to choose the right grade of clarity for your diamond.
Prior to finalizing the purchase of a diamond, be sure to review a copy of its grading report. Since there are no laws regulating how diamonds are graded, the certificate is proof that the diamond has undergone an unbiased, professional assessment. Be aware that there are differences among grading companies and laboratories. Diamonds purchased from Diamonds on Fifth are certified primarily through GIA, IGI or EGL. Learn how to understand diamond certificates.		Even though diamonds are the hardest substance known to man, they are not indestructible, and require care. Learn how to keep your diamond sparkling, and set securely in your ring.
Buying a diamond may be one of the most important decisions you will ever make. Consider size, shape, quality and your budget as you plan your diamond purchase. We at Diamonds on Fifth recommend that you do not commit yourself to a dollar amount before familiarizing yourself with all the options.		Is it safe to mail a diamond? Can I view the diamond in person? We at Diamonds on Fifth have compiled a list of frequently asked questions to help you find answers which will put your mind at ease.

Diamond Cut

The cut of the diamond is perhaps the most important of all C’s as it determines its brilliance. While nature determines the color and clarity of a stone, diamond cut is dependant solely upon the skill of the cutter. A diamond cutter spends years mastering his craft, learning how best to cut a rough diamond to achieve the ultimate cut with the fewest imperfections and the least loss of carat weight. The better the cut, the more valuable the diamond.
A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance. The width and depth have an affect on how light travels within the diamond and how much brilliance it will exude.

Shallow cut: Light leaks out of the bottom and sides causing the diamond to appear watery and lose brilliance. Deep cut: Pavilion is cut too thick and causes light to go straight through the diamond. This makes the diamond appear dark and dull.

For starters, find out what shape she likes. Diamonds come in nine basic shapes. Click on each shape for detailed information.

Round Princess Emerald Asscher Cushion Oval Radiant Pear Heart Marquise

The majority of diamond engagement rings today are set with round diamonds. Most of the remaining rings are set with the princess cut.

Determining the cut of a diamond extends further than straightforward measurements of the width and depth. Diamond grading laboratories utilize optical measuring devices to create a three-dimensional image of your diamond in order to ascertain its proportions and angles.

Diameter -The width of the stone, measured through the girdle. Table-The largest facet of a gemstone, located at the top of the stone. Crown-The top segment of a diamond that extends from the girdle to the table. Girdle-The outermost edge of the diamond, defining the perimeter of the stone and intersecting the upper and lower sections of the stone. Its purpose is to keep the stone from chipping. Pavilion-The bottom segment of a diamond, reaching from the girdle to the culet. Culet-The facet found at the very tip of the gemstone, preferably not visible to the naked eye. Depth-The length of a diamond, as measured from culet to table.

Polish and symmetry are crucial to the diamond cutting process. Both polish and symmetry are assigned a grade, which appear on the diamond certificate. The polish grade indicates the smoothness of the facets, while the symmetry grade evaluates the alignment of the facets. With poor polish, the surface of a facet can be dulled and may create lackluster, blurry sparkle. With poor symmetry, light can be misdirected as it enters and exits the diamond.

Because cut is so important, several grading methods have been developed to help consumers determine the cut of a particular diamond. In general, these grades are ideal, very good, good, fair and poor.
Diamonds on Fifth uses the measurements from each diamond’s grading report to determine:
Table percentage: The ratio of the largest facet on top of stone to the girdle’s overall diameter.
Depth percentage: The ratio of the total height or depth of the diamond to its diameter.
From these proportions, Diamonds on Fifth has assigned each diamond a cut grade. The following are the proportion ranges for each grade of diamond cut:

Cut Grade	Depth %	Table %
Ideal	59.1 - 63	53 -58
Very Good	58.1 - 64	52 – 61
Good	57 – 64.5	51 - 65

Ideal cut: An exquisite and rare cut that reflects nearly all the light that enters the diamond and creates maximum fire and brilliance. “Ideal” for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest diamonds that money can buy.
Very good cut: Reflects almost as much light as the ideal cut but for a lower price. A Diamonds on Fifth recommended buy.
Good cut: Reflects most of the light that enters the diamond. The cutter has chosen to create the largest possible diamond from the original rough crystal, rather than cutting extra weight off to create a smaller but higher quality diamond. Diamonds in this range offer an excellent cost-savings to customers who want to stay in a budget without sacrificing quality or beauty.
Fair cut: A fair cut diamond will not be as brilliant as a good cut, but is still considered a quality diamond.
Poor cut: This includes all diamonds that do not meet the performance standards of a fair cut. These diamonds are deep and narrow or shallow and wide and tend to lose most of the light out the sides and bottom. Diamonds on fifth does not carry diamonds with cut grades of poor.
Diamonds on Fifth carries an exquisite selection of certified ideal-cut diamonds. We do not carry diamonds with cut grades lower than good as these are generally too shallow or too deep to present an acceptable amount of brilliance.
Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
While a good quality round diamond with an ideal cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and good cuts might be just as attractive without costing as much. Diamonds on Fifth recommends that for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

Diamond Color

Diamond color has a significant impact on its value. The color scale ranges from D to Z, from colorless to light yellow, respectively. Because a colorless diamond, like a clear window, allows more light to pass through it than a colored diamond, colorless diamonds emit more sparkle and fire.

D:Absolutely colorless. The highest color grade, which is extremely rare.
E:Colorless. Minimal traces of color that can only be detected by an expert gemologist. Also a very rare diamond.
F:Colorless. Slight color, which can only be detected by an expert gemologist, but still, considered a “colorless” grade. A high quality diamond.
G-H:Near colorless. Color noticeable when compared to diamonds of better grades, but these grades offer excellent value.
I-K:Near colorless. Color slightly detectable. An excellent value.
L-M: Not carried at Diamonds on Fifth.
N-Z: Not carried at Diamonds on Fifth.

At Diamonds on Fifth we sell only the finest diamonds with color graded D-K. When buying a diamond, take into consideration that it is often very difficult to detect the difference between a colorless diamond (D-F) and a near colorless diamond (G-H). Diamonds graded better than K are colorless or near colorless and their color is typically undetectable to the unaided eye.
What is Fluorescence?
Fluorescence is a bluish glow that comes from a stone exposed to ultraviolet light. Under most lighting conditions, this fluorescence is not detectable to the eye. While most gemologists prefer diamonds without this effect, some people enjoy it. Medium fluorescence and strong fluorescence can have a positive effect on stones of low color (K and worse). On stones of higher color (D-G) strong or medium fluorescence can make a diamond appear cloudy and hazy, which undervalues them on the market. Diamonds with a strong or very strong fluorescence are priced slightly lower than other diamonds.
Color Chart
To compare the prices of diamonds with the same clarity grade and carat weight but differing color grades, see the chart below:

Price comparison: 1-1.09 carat VS1 round diamond
	Colorless		Near Colorless
	D	E	F		G	H	I	J	K
Ideal	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00
Very Good	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00
Good	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00
Fair	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00

Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
While colorless stones are rarer and cost more, near colorless stones will look very much the same to the eye once set in jewelry. Choosing a G-K color instead of one in the higher DEF range will enable you to get a larger diamond for the money, without a substantial compromise in performance or beauty. If the diamond is to be set in white gold or platinum, Diamonds on Fifth recommends you aim a little higher on the scale than you would if setting it in yellow gold. Yellow gold disguises body color whereas white metal reveals it.
Fluorescence can add eye appeal to near colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Diamonds on Fifth does not recommend fluorescence to a colorless stone as it may reduce its value.

Diamond Clarity

A diamond’s clarity is rated by the number, size and position of its internal inclusions or flaws. The fewer the flaws, the more valuable the stone. Diamonds are classified according to their position on the GIA clarity scale, from FL (flawless) to I3 (imperfect, inclusions visible to the naked eye.)

FL: Flawless. No internal or external flaws. Very rare and very beautiful diamonds. IF: Internally Flawless. No internal flaws. Also very rare and beautiful diamonds. VVS1-VVS2: Very very slightly included: These inclusions are very difficult to see under 10x magnification. An excellent quality diamond. VS1-VS2: Very slightly included: Inclusions are not typically visible to the unaided eye. Less expensive than VVS1 or VVS2 grades. Also high quality diamonds. SI1-SI2: Slightly Included: These inclusions are visible under 10x magnification and may be visible with the unaided eye. A good value diamond. I1-I2-I3: Included: Inclusions and flaws visible to the naked eye.

The chart below compares the prices of diamonds with same carat weight, color, and cut grades.

Cut Grade	Depth %	Table %
FL	Flawless No internal or external flaws.	$6,900.00
IF	Internally Flawless No internal flaws.	$6,500.00
VVS1 VVS2	Very, very slightly included Very difficult to see inclusions under 10X magnification.	$6,200.00
VS1 VS2	Very, very slightly included Very different to see inclusions under 10X magnification.	$6,900.00
SI1 SI2	Very slightly included Easy to see inclusions under 10X magnification. May not be able to see inclusions with unaided eye.	$4,500.00
I1 I2 I3	Included Contains inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. Diamonds On Fifth carries only I1 grade.	$3,200.00

Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
Diamonds on Fifth recommends that you select an “eye-clean” diamond – one that has no inclusions, which are visible to the unaided eye. Diamonds of this clarity are much less expensive than IF do FL grade diamonds and typically do not contain visible inclusions that detract from the beauty of the diamond. To insure the highest clarity diamonds, Diamonds on Fifth carries only FL-I1 which represent some for the clearest diamonds available.

Diamond Carat

The weight or size of a diamond is measured in carats. A one-carat stone is equal in weight to one hundred smaller units called points. Carat weight is the most obvious factor in determining a diamond’s value, depending on the quality of its cut, clarity and color. Be aware that the price of a stone may jump after certain weight thresholds (usually at quarter-carat marks, such as .50 of .75 points.)
When considering the best carat weight, take into account her taste and style, the size of her finger, the size of your setting and your budget. For ideas and suggestions on how to choose the right engagement ring, read our Engagement Ring Guide.
In short, The “carat” is a unit of measurement used to weigh diamonds. Although a higher carat weight may increase its rarity and value, the cut color and clarity of the diamond greatly influence the price. Small stones can be more expensive than larger stones if the other 3 C’s, color, cut and clarity, rate highly. For more information read our education on diamond cut and clarity.
Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a .90 ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain levels, per carat prices increase substantially. By staying just under these so called magic marks, it is sometimes possible to get real price savings.. For instance, a well cut stone of .45 ct. might be quite less expensive than the same quality .50ct.. yet appear almost the same. The important magic marks are .50ct., .70ct, 1.00ct,1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Diamond Certificate

With every diamond purchased by Diamonds on Fifth, you will receive a diamond grading report, and/or a diamond dossier which is a diamond quality report. You can view these certificates on line. An appraisal document will also be provided with each diamond purchased. What is a Certificate? A diamond certificate provides an evaluation of the diamond’s characteristic. It is prepared by an independent third party laboratory and verifies that a diamond is genuine. It contains a complete quality report of the diamond with information on its shape, weight, color, clarity, fluorescence, measurements, proportions and overall finish. Diamonds on Fifth diamonds are graded by two of the most reputable and respected laboratories in the industry, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the European Gemological Laboratory (EGL). These two laboratories have a long history of strict, consistent and unbiased diamond grading. Every loose diamond sold by Diamonds on Fifth is thoroughly analyzed, inspected and graded by either of these independent laboratories.

GIA Certificate	GIA Dossier
Appraisal Document	EGL Certificate

Diamond Care

Diamonds are forever, but they must be kept clean to assure their most brilliant performance. Ordinary wear, including the use of hand lotions and hair care products and simple household work, can all cause a buildup that can leave a hazy film on your diamond. This buildup will eventually cause your brilliant diamond to appear dull.
Here are some simple but important tips on how to keep your diamond ring looking as great as it did when you first received it.
Wear
At Diamonds on Fifth we suggest you remove your ring during strenuous activities, when going into a swimming pool or hot tub or while taking part in sports.

Storage
Diamonds jewelry is best stored separately to avoid becoming scratched or damaged. Store your diamonds in individual jewelry cases, cloth pouches or in a fabric-lined jewelry box with separate dividers and compartments.
Cleaning
To clean your jewelry at home, be careful not to use abrasives that can dull the setting.
For at-home cleaning, we recommend mixing one part ammonia and four parts water. Scrub your diamond gently with a soft brush to loosen dirt. Avoid brushing the metal itself, as this may cause it to scratch. Pat dry with a lint-free cloth.
For a more professional cleaning, you can purchase one of the many types of small machines on the market that will clean any piece of jewelry that can be dipped in a liquid, in a matter of minutes. These consist of a metal cup that you fill with water and detergent. When the machine is turned on, a high-frequency motion creates the cleaning action. Click here to purchase this item.
Security
At Diamonds on Fifth we recommend a visit to a professional jeweler every six months to a year to have your mounting checked and tightened. During this time, the jeweler can also clean and polish your setting to look brand new.

Diamond Cost

Shopping for a diamond ring can be overwhelming. Here is some practical advice from Diamonds on Fifth to help you with your choices.

The engagement ring may be the single most important gift you will ever give. Budget is the key. The generally established rule is that a man should spend roughly two months salary on the engagement ring. Most men spend more than they plan to. We, at Diamonds on Fifth, recommend that you do not commit yourself to a set dollar amount before you familiarize yourself with all the options. There are small compromises that can be made to fit a nice looking diamond into almost any budget. In each of the sections on the four C’s we give you advice on getting the best for your money.

While a good quality round diamond with an ideal cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and good cuts might be just as attractive without costing as much. Diamonds on Fifth recommends that for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

While colorless stones are rarer and cost more, near colorless stones will look very much the same to the eye once set in jewelry. Choosing a G-K color instead of one in the higher DEF range will enable you to get a larger diamond for the money, without a substantial compromise in performance or beauty. If the diamond is to be set in white gold or platinum, Diamonds on Fifth recommends you aim a little higher on the scale than you would if setting it in yellow gold. Yellow gold disguises body color whereas white metal reveals it.
Fluorescence can add eye appeal to near colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Diamonds on Fifth does not recommend fluorescence to a colorless stone as it may reduce its value.


Diamonds on Fifth recommends that you select an “eye-clean” diamond – one that has no inclusions which are visible to the unaided eye. Diamonds of this clarity are much less expensive than IF o FL grade diamonds and typically do not contain visible inclusions that detract from the beauty of the diamond. To ensure the highest clarity diamonds, Diamonds on Fifth carries only FL-I1, which represent some for the clearest diamonds available.

Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a .90 ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain levels, per carat prices increase substantially. By staying just under these so called magic marks, it is sometimes possible to get real price savings.. For instance, a well cut stone of .45 ct. might be quite less expensive than the same quality .50ct.. yet appear almost the same. The important magic marks are .50ct., .70ct, 1.00ct,1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Diamond Shapes

For starters, find out what shape she likes. Diamonds come in nine basic shapes. Click on each shape for detailed information.

Round	Princess	Marquise	Emerald	Radiant	Pear	Oval	Heart	Assher	Cushion

Princess The princess cut is a square cut with sharp edges. It is the best choice among fancy cut diamonds for overall brilliance and fire. The princess cut utilizes most of the shape of the original rough diamond and the weight loss from cutting is low. It can therefore be more appealing in price than a comparative round cut of the same weight. Princess-cut diamonds can vary greatly in how square or rectangular they are. To find the dimension of the princess you want, see the length to width ratio below.
For princess shape to appear more square look for a length to width ratio to be equal or less than 1:1.10. If you like the look of rectangular shape took for length to width ratios greater than 1.10: 1.
Emerald
Emerald cuts have a sleek and elegant look. The emerald cut is rectangular with cut corners and it has a step cut. When choosing the emerald a higher quality is preferred because its cut makes inclusions more noticeable than with other cuts. Emerald can vary greatly in how rectangular they are. To choose the shape you want see the chart below.
The classic emerald cut has a length to width ratio of approximately 1.35:1. In recent years, the square emerald cut has also become increasingly popular.
Marquise
The marquise cut is shaped like a boat and looks beautiful when set with round or pear shaped side stones. Women who want to create an illusion of longer, narrower fingers often choose the marquise. To find the dimension of marquise see the chart below for length to width ratios.
For a marquise-cut that is pleasing to the eye look for a length to width ratio between 1.75:2.25 For a rounder look choose a ration closer to 1:1.5.
Oval
The oval diamond has the dazzling brilliance of a round diamond. Its oval shape gives the flattering illusion of length to the finger and hand and is popular among women with shorter fingers. It can also accentuate long slender fingers. To choose the dimension you want, see the length to width ratio below.
The preferred and average size of an oval diamond that is pleasing to the eye is 1.50.
Asscher
This elegant and unique shape is nearly identical to the emerald cut, except that it is square. The asscher cut has a facet plan that draws the eye into the gemstone and gives it depth. All asscher cuts appear square and 1:1 ratio is preferred.
Cushion
The cushion cut has a square shape with rounded corners and sides. It is an antique-style diamond that was most popular about a century ago and has recently come back into fashion. Its old world femininity has an elegant appeal.
Squarer looking cushion cut diamonds with a ratio of 1:1 are preferred and tend to be more pleasing to the eye than rectangular ones.
Radiant
This is a square or rectangular shaped diamond that has clipped off corners like the emerald cut. It combines the elegance of the emerald cut diamond with the brilliance of the round diamond. The radiant cut diamond can vary in dimension. See the chart below to determine what the diamond will look like when viewed from above.
While a squarer radiant cut diamond with a ratio of less than 1.05:1 is most popular, some people prefer the rectangular look.
Heart
The ultimate symbol of love, the romantic heart shape has the advantage of having a nearly round pavilion which accents its beautiful brilliance.
A length to width ratio of between .90 and 1.15 is usually preferred and most pleasing to the eye.
Pear
This fancy teardrop shaped cut has a rounded end and a single point. It is extremely well suited for pendants and earrings. Many who like the look of round but want a fancy shape choose the pear shaped diamond. Longer pear shaped diamonds also have a slimming effect on fingers.
Most people prefer a length to width ratio between 1.50 to 1.75.