Stone Setting Types Guide

Stone Setting Types Guide

Prong Setting

Prong setting, also known as claw setting, is the most common and popular method of setting stones into jewelry. It is the easiest as well as least expensive method of setting a gemstone. Also it allows optimal amount of light to pass through the gemstone, showing the gemstone at its maximum brilliance. This setting style is used for all types of jewelry items and mostly for solitaire engagement and bridal rings. 

Pave Setting

The word pave (pronounced as ‘pa vay’) came from the French word ‘Pavé’ means pavement. Pave setting is a setting method in which the surface of a jewelry item appears to be covered with tiny diamonds. These same sized tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out on the surface of a jewelry item. Generally stones are positioned close together in a honeycomb pattern. Like the prong setting, pave setting also has small handmade claws, triangular in shape, which hold the stones low and very close so that they produce a carpet of brilliance across the entire surface of a jewelry item.
The use of multiple stones in pave setting forms an illusion of a bigger jewelry. Usually this setting is combined and presented with other stone settings to add more beauty and effect. This setting gives best results with diamonds and white gold.
Bezel Setting
Bezel setting is one of the oldest stone setting techniques and still very popular for certain benefits. Bezel is a thin metal strip, which is soldered with head that wraps around a gem to hold it in place. Bezel setting requires a proper balance in all the angles. It provides a very secure grip as well as protects gemstone’s edges, the girdle and the pavilion from scratches and chips. This setting can be used for any type of stone although mostly used for the fragile gemstones such as opal.
If the bezel setting does not surround the whole girdle of a gemstone and splits into two or more sections, covering just part of the gemstone, then this setting is known as half bezel or semi bezel.
Bezel setting is suitable for people with active lifestyles and it is considered the best for men because this setting method looks masculine. Bezel setting is generally used for all the types of jewelry items like earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.
Channel Setting

Channel setting is a setting technique in which gemstones are settled side-by-side as their girdles are held in between two parallel tracks on each metal wall. This setting gives impression of floating stones in the jewelry item and produces maximum amount of light as no metal appears in-between the gemstones. Structure of channel setting is very similar with English language letter ‘U’ in shape with two sidewalls and a bottom. A track is available on each side of the inner metal wall to contain gemstone girdle.
Channel setting protects the gemstones exceptionally well as none of the stone’s edges are exposed, and so that they are safe from hard knocks or general wear and tear. This setting is best suitable for diamonds with round, princess, emerald, oval, square, and baguette cuts and often used in jewelry items like eternity bands, rings and especially in tennis bracelets.
Invisible Setting

Invisible setting is a new and improved setting method that is considered as one of the most difficult setting methods. In this setting, the stones are positioned in such a manner so that metal is not visible from in-between stones that ultimately show appearance of uninterrupted and continuous surface. In this setting, stones are grooved just below the girdle and then those grooved stones are slid onto metal tracks to hold them in place.
This setting is appropriate only for multi-stone arrangement that usually attached in multiple rows. It looks similar to pave setting but gives better look and more brilliance, since no claws obstruct the light’s entry. Usually invisible setting is best suited with square princess cut diamonds, because the straight edges can be positioned very close to each other without leaving any space in-between.

Gemstone Setting Types

Gemstone Setting Types

Closed and Open Settings

There are two basic types of gemstone settings: open settings and closed settings. Open settings are any type of setting that allows light to enter through the bottom of a faceted or transparent cabochon gemstone.

In a "closed setting" light can only enter the stone from the top. This type of setting is appropriate for opaque cabochon-cut stones and highly refractive faceted stones where light can enter through the crown and table of the stone and be reflected back to the observer from within.

Open Gem Setting Types

Prong Settings

Within the category of "open settings" or "à jour settings" there are several variations. The most common variety for faceted gemstones is a prong setting (below, left), with either 3 or 4 prongs that hold the stone in place. This type of setting exposes the maximum amount of light to the sides and bottom (pavilion).

Carré Settings

A Carré setting is where the stone is seated directly over a light well (above, right), and the stone is set by raising (hammering) four "spurs" with a "graver" tool.

Tension Settings

A "tension setting" uses the metal's natural tendency to "spring" back to its original position to hold the stone in place. The metal is spread apart, and the girdle of the stone is seated into small grooves in the inside surface of the metal. This type of setting requires special alloys of metal that are strong enough to create and withstand the necessary pressure to hold the stone firmly. Tension settings are only appropriate for very hard stones (Hardness of 9 to 10: diamond, ruby, sapphire, cz or moissanite) as the setting can exert up to 12,000 lbs. of pressure per square inch on the stone's girdle.

The tension-setting was developed in the 1960s by Professor Friedrich Becker of Niessing in Vreden, Germany. Metallurgist Steven Kretchmer of New York (ring at top, center) holds several recent patents for his advanced techniques in heat-treating alloys to increase strength and elasticity.

Frustum Settings

A Frustum, or "Hollow Cone" setting is a conical or tapered setting constructed from sheet metal. The stone's pavilion rests against the inside of the cone and the outer edge of the cone's lip is bet over the girdle to secure the stone. A frustum setting can be open or closed.

Closed Gem Setting Types

Variations of the closed setting are the "bezel (gypsy) setting, channel setting, cluster setting, Kundan setting, frustum setting, Pavé, and the seamless tube setting.

Bezel Settings

The oldest and most basic gemstone setting is the "Bezel", derived from the French word "Biseau" meaning chamfered. Used primarily to set cabochons, a vertical strip of metal is formed to encircle the stone, then soldered to a metal base. The stone is secured by pushing and bending the bezel towards the stone using a burnishing tool.

Channel Settings

Channel settings are primarily used to set faceted gemstones that are straight-sided, or quadrilateral in shape (baguette or princess cut). The stones are aligned in a channel, sitting girdle-to-girdle. step-cut stones can rest on a track giving a "keystone" effect. Matching stones that are cut to a uniform size for use in channel settings are called "calibré-cut," as in "Eternity Rings."

Pavé Settings

A Pavé Setting is a tight grouping of identically sized stones laid across a flat, or convex surface, from the French word for "paved." The stones are held in place using three to six raised beads per stone.

How to Evaluate Jewelry Setting before buying
Do you murmur the famous song of Nicole Kidman "Diamonds are a girl's best friend" and want to apply it to your girlfriend in her next birthday? Even if your pocket does not permit a huge budget for a larger diamond, don't worry. You can just walk into the famous gemstone mart and ask for the special illusion setting to elude your small diamond magnified to impress your girlfriend.
Before delving into the setting techniques you need to know the various popular settings and pros and cons for each of them. Prong Setting, Bezel Setting, Pave Setting, Channel Setting, Invisible Setting are the most common setting techniques for gemstone in your ornaments.

Prong Setting
Lets start with Prong Setting, the most common types of setting. The metal claws hold the gemstone and thus it is also known as Claw setting. Claws are bent over the edge to give the stone the extra security. The main advantage is as the claws occupy very small places; the most of the gemstone remain exposed glittering its own beauty. It's a faster methodology and can accommodate any size and shape. The claws normally vary between four and six. The prong setting is cheaper and its also convenient for maintaining or cleaning purpose. The major disadvantage of Prong setting is the claws are often prone to catch clothing mainly woolen types. Thin, flat claws can eventually break risking your precious gemstone. Again very large claws will reduce the glitter of the gemstone. V-shaped claws are desirable sometimes. You must check whether the stone is tightly fit under the claws at an even height and the edges of the claws are not broken or there should not be any empty space left between the claws and the gemstone. The claws should reach adequately inside the stone, not merely the edges. You must ensure that the claws are small enough to allow the gemstone to touch your skin directly. Solitaire engagement rings are the classic example of Prong settings.
Bezel Setting
The most ancient setting technique is Bezel Setting, which holds the gemstone just like a picture frame. Its like a collar of Gold or silver, which is almost wrapped around the gemstone. As you can apprehend how much careful, the tailor needs to be, while he is designing the collar of your shirt, the similar effort and attention is required for the Bezel Setting to fit the stone properly. Enough caution is to be taken so that the glittering effect of the stone is never reduced to due to the setting. Bezel Setting gives the designer more variety of options for its ultramodern look. A version of the Bezel Setting is called the Flush setting, where the gemstone is sunk into the mounting and the surface has got a window cut. You must check the evenness of the lip of the Bezel or Flush setting and any distortion or hitches need to be avoided. The final checking should be whether the gemstone has been fitted tightly from all sides. The wide open face of the gemstone allows the cleaning and maintaining work easily and the tiny edge of the collar protects the gemstone perfectly.
Here are some tricks. If a rim of white gold or platinum encircles a white diamond, the diamond appears larger. A golden yellow bezel setting throws yellow tints on a white diamond making a brilliant look of the ring.

Pave setting
The best way to compromise the quality with your lower budget is the Pave setting. Small pieces are paved inside the setting. Small pieces are carefully set with beads or grains of metals, usually gold or platinum to define a carpet of brilliance. This is mainly used for diamond rings, where the setting appears to be a continuous surface of diamonds. In this case, you must ensure the evenness of both the gemstone as well as the beads. If the beads or grains are not evenly spaced it is sure to reduce the glimmer. Diamonds engagement rings and earrings are often use Pave settings. Generally the small pieces like princess cut diamonds cost reasonably lesser than the larger stone, but the illusive appearance will enhance its value.
Channel setting
Now if you divert to the paradigm of the bracelet world, the first setting, which comes up in mind, is the Channel setting. The gemstones are held between the two tracks of the U-shaped formed by the ornamental metal. This is most useful for the square shaped gemstones, which can sit side by side. Sometimes additional claws are set to hold the gemstone tightly. It started with the eternity brands and tennis bracelets, now-a days a variety of engagement rings also use channel setting. Some famous shopping sites like eBay and MSN are offering various engagement rings using the channel settings.

Invisible setting
Do you want a complete visibility of the gemstone? Then you need the most costly and posh setting, the Invisible setting. The gemstone appears to float and no gold or metal is visible in the surface. Which mechanism shows this floating appearance? Gemstones are properly cut and shaped and a net of wires hold the stones tightly. Either the stones are grooved on the back or pins, bars are fitted externally to the gemstone to facilitate the wires. In a proper setting the gemstone will never wobble and you must ensure that the levels of the gemstones are perfect. The legendary art deco period of 1908 in Paris witnessed the usage of invisible settings by Van Cleef and Arpel. If you want a look and feel visit the Fancy Diamond Inc website to check the yellow gold Invisible setting Diamond ring.
There are some gemstone specific settings. Like illusion setting for diamond, where a mirror-like plate is used to enlarge the appearance of the small diamond. Simple colour mix and match also become useful for enhancing the glory of the jewel. Like light yellow diamond in gold will design the yellowish tint of the diamond where as the same diamond in any white-metal setting will appear whitish.

Stone Setting

1. Prong Setting
A gemstone is held in place by prongs (claws). Prongs may be jointed either with metal or gemstone seat made in Bezel Setting. Prongs appear in many shapes such as round, triangle, square, or heart etc. depending on jewelry designs. However, the thickness of each prong is normally equal to each other in one jewelry piece. One, two or multiple claws are extended over the stone and carved to make a resting place or seat for the stone. The number of prongs in one jewelry work depends on size, shape of gemstone, and the design. Four, six and eight prongs are commonly found in prong-set jewelry. In addition, four or six prongs are usually used in bigger size of stone that needs longer prongs. Several types of Prong Setting include:

- Prong Setting with four claws
- Shared Prong Setting: only one prong holding two gemstones
- Multi Prong Setting: six and eight prongs are mostly made in this type of setting

2. Pave setting
Pave setting is a setting of several tiny gemstones such as facet-cut gemstones, cabochon (stones cut in convex shape), or pearls placed so close together in the seat. Beads are normally used to hold the stone and at least three beads are used for a stone. Pave setting usually covered the entire metal or almost all of the metal. The stones may be placed in a row or in circle etc. The resting place for the stone may be in convex, curved or flat shape.

3. Channel Setting
Gemstones are placed in rows between rails or channels. The rail is short or long depending on the amount of stones used. Stones are normally in the same size either in facet-cut or round-cut shapes. Each stone is snugly held in the rail or channel which has been carved to secure the tip and the bottom of the stone. Each side of stones in a channel is squeezed by its adjacent stones.

Channel Setting can also have only a single stone in the channel such as Half Bezel

4. Bezel Setting
In Bezel Setting, a gemstone is held in the seat by the metal that encircles all sides of the stone and extends slightly above it. Bezel Setting is more commonly used with cabochon stones due to its opaque quality than transparent stones. This is because light cannot pass through the stone causing no sparkling or shinning effect. Sometimes, a small hole can be made at the bottom of the seat to allow more light to the stone.

5. Tube Setting
Tube setting has the same methods with Bezel Setting. Only that the metal in tube-set jewelry is taller and has a tube-like shape.

6. Flush Setting
A stone is held below the surface of the metal. The seat is no need to be done but a drill inside the metal. It is important that the outlet of the stone is not shown. Mostly, moderate-size or small-size of gemstone is used in Flush Setting. The stone is placed into a hole by tools. The metal surrounding the stone and the top of stone’s girdle are then blushed to secure the stone. Gems normally look smaller than they are in this setting method.

7. Tension Setting
A gemstone is held by an enormous strength of metal pressed on the stone. Platinum is commonly used in tension setting due to its hard quality. Other metals with minimum mixture of alloy are also good for Tension Setting. Medium or smaller stones are more suitable to be used in this setting.

8. Roman Setting
Gemstone is placed directly into the metal which acts as a seat itself. A cut on the metal is made around the stone to emphasize the stone seat.

9. Invisible Setting
Square-shape gemstones are placed in a row side by side with no space left between. The gems are laid so close that the metal in the bottom cannot be seen. Brilliant-cut stones are normally used in invisible setting method. The stones must be in the same size, similar or match color. The seat is also in a square shape placing altogether to support the stones which has also been cut in the same shape. This allows stones to be securely placed in their seats. Moreover, two cuts are made oppositely on each stone’s pavilion to have it fit perfectly in the seat. (process to be made at the goldsmith’s)

10. Illusion Setting
A gemstone is held either by prongs or beads but some space around the stone is left empty. Pave-setting in a radius line may be made to make the stone look bigger than it is.

11. Kundun Setting
The method of Kundun Setting is the same as in Bezel Setting only the process of the seat making is different. The seat in Kundun setting is normally made from pure metal which has softer quality. Gemstone can be pushed into the seat by pressing. The seat is usually put with highly light reflecting material before a transparent gem is placed. This method makes the stone more shinning. Colored gems, tin or pure silver are mostly used.

12. Back Setting
Gemstone is placed at the back of the seat like in Prong Setting.INSIDE

Popular Diamond Setting Types

Popular Diamond Setting Types

To judge the craftsmanship of a diamond wedding rings or engagement rings, pay close attention to the quality of the setting. Is the metal holding the stone even and smoothly finished so it won't catch on clothing? Is the stone held firmly and square in the setting? Is the metal well polished with no little burrs of metal or pockmarks?

Common Settings

Prong
The most common and popular type of setting, with either 4 or 6 prongs. The high position of the diamond allows maximum exposure to the light from top to bottom. This type of setting can be used for all kinds of faceted stones.

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V-Prong
The diamond fits snuggly inside notches carved on both sides of a prong. Two sides of a prong are squeezed from both sides to hold the stone in place and to protect from accidental breakage. A popular setting type for princess cut diamond rings.

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Bezel
The bezel setting has been used for hundreds of years. The diamond is set deep inside of the mounting, then, using a burnishing tool, the outer metal mass is pushed over the edges of the stone to create a strip which holds it in place. This setting can be used for any type of stone.

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Channel
Channel settings can be used for a variety of faceted stones - round brilliant, princess cut, emerald cut , baguettes, etc. The stones are aligned girdle-to-girdle along the groove and secured by hammering the upper sides of the channel walls.

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Pave
The stones are placed side by side in small openings on a flat surface. The diamonds are secured by raised overlapping gem spurs and are finished by creating beads.

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Tension
A relatively new type of setting for engagement rings where "springing", metal's physical characteristic, is used to hold faceted stones in place. The gems must have a hardness of 9 or up (diamond, sapphire, ruby, etc). The diamond is set in small grooves which are cut at the ends of the ring shank.

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Bar
In this setting, the stones are set between bars. The diamonds are nested in grooves and overlapped by metal using a special hammering tool. This type of setting is used for gems with a hardness of 9 and up.

How To Choose Your Diamond

How to choose your Diamond

Diamonds on Fifth will make sure you have a good understanding of what you are buying to help you make the right decision.

How To Choose Your Diamond

Cut Color Clarity Carat Weight Certificate Care Cost
At Diamonds on Fifth we make it our mission to fully equip you with the knowledge you need to make an educated purchase. A basic understanding of the 4 C’s cut, color, clarity and carat weight-of diamonds, will enhance your buying experience and ensure that you’ll be ready to choose the diamond that’s right for you.
The cut of a diamond, which is its angles, shapes and proportions, has an important impact on the sparkle and brilliance of a diamond. Although a diamond may have perfect color and clarity, a poor cut can make a diamond look dull, while an expertly cut diamond will optimize the natural radiance of a diamond. Diamonds on Fifth carries only the highest grades of diamond cut, to ensure the most sparkle. Learn how to select the right diamond cut with the most brilliance for your budget.		Diamonds are judged by their color or lack thereof. Diamonds with very little color are highly prized and priced accordingly. Even a little color can diminish the brilliance of a diamond. To help you choose the most brilliant diamond, Diamonds on Fifth offers diamonds with only the highest grades of color. Learn how to select a colorless or near colorless diamond to ensure the most brilliance for your budget.
The “carat” is a unit of measurement used to weigh diamonds. Since larger diamonds are more rare than smaller diamonds, diamond value tends to rise exponentially with carat weight. Although a higher carat weight may increase its rarity and value, the cut, color and clarity of the diamond greatly influences the price. Small diamonds can be more expensive than larger stones if the other 3 C’s rate highly.		Diamonds with few flaws or inclusions are very rare and highly valued. Clarity is graded based on the number, location, size and type of the inclusions found in a diamond. Diamonds on Fifth offers some of the clearest diamonds available. Learn how to choose the right grade of clarity for your diamond.
Prior to finalizing the purchase of a diamond, be sure to review a copy of its grading report. Since there are no laws regulating how diamonds are graded, the certificate is proof that the diamond has undergone an unbiased, professional assessment. Be aware that there are differences among grading companies and laboratories. Diamonds purchased from Diamonds on Fifth are certified primarily through GIA, IGI or EGL. Learn how to understand diamond certificates.		Even though diamonds are the hardest substance known to man, they are not indestructible, and require care. Learn how to keep your diamond sparkling, and set securely in your ring.
Buying a diamond may be one of the most important decisions you will ever make. Consider size, shape, quality and your budget as you plan your diamond purchase. We at Diamonds on Fifth recommend that you do not commit yourself to a dollar amount before familiarizing yourself with all the options.		Is it safe to mail a diamond? Can I view the diamond in person? We at Diamonds on Fifth have compiled a list of frequently asked questions to help you find answers which will put your mind at ease.

Diamond Cut

The cut of the diamond is perhaps the most important of all C’s as it determines its brilliance. While nature determines the color and clarity of a stone, diamond cut is dependant solely upon the skill of the cutter. A diamond cutter spends years mastering his craft, learning how best to cut a rough diamond to achieve the ultimate cut with the fewest imperfections and the least loss of carat weight. The better the cut, the more valuable the diamond.
A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance. The width and depth have an affect on how light travels within the diamond and how much brilliance it will exude.

Shallow cut: Light leaks out of the bottom and sides causing the diamond to appear watery and lose brilliance. Deep cut: Pavilion is cut too thick and causes light to go straight through the diamond. This makes the diamond appear dark and dull.

For starters, find out what shape she likes. Diamonds come in nine basic shapes. Click on each shape for detailed information.

Round Princess Emerald Asscher Cushion Oval Radiant Pear Heart Marquise

The majority of diamond engagement rings today are set with round diamonds. Most of the remaining rings are set with the princess cut.

Determining the cut of a diamond extends further than straightforward measurements of the width and depth. Diamond grading laboratories utilize optical measuring devices to create a three-dimensional image of your diamond in order to ascertain its proportions and angles.

Diameter -The width of the stone, measured through the girdle. Table-The largest facet of a gemstone, located at the top of the stone. Crown-The top segment of a diamond that extends from the girdle to the table. Girdle-The outermost edge of the diamond, defining the perimeter of the stone and intersecting the upper and lower sections of the stone. Its purpose is to keep the stone from chipping. Pavilion-The bottom segment of a diamond, reaching from the girdle to the culet. Culet-The facet found at the very tip of the gemstone, preferably not visible to the naked eye. Depth-The length of a diamond, as measured from culet to table.

Polish and symmetry are crucial to the diamond cutting process. Both polish and symmetry are assigned a grade, which appear on the diamond certificate. The polish grade indicates the smoothness of the facets, while the symmetry grade evaluates the alignment of the facets. With poor polish, the surface of a facet can be dulled and may create lackluster, blurry sparkle. With poor symmetry, light can be misdirected as it enters and exits the diamond.

Because cut is so important, several grading methods have been developed to help consumers determine the cut of a particular diamond. In general, these grades are ideal, very good, good, fair and poor.
Diamonds on Fifth uses the measurements from each diamond’s grading report to determine:
Table percentage: The ratio of the largest facet on top of stone to the girdle’s overall diameter.
Depth percentage: The ratio of the total height or depth of the diamond to its diameter.
From these proportions, Diamonds on Fifth has assigned each diamond a cut grade. The following are the proportion ranges for each grade of diamond cut:

Cut Grade	Depth %	Table %
Ideal	59.1 - 63	53 -58
Very Good	58.1 - 64	52 – 61
Good	57 – 64.5	51 - 65

Ideal cut: An exquisite and rare cut that reflects nearly all the light that enters the diamond and creates maximum fire and brilliance. “Ideal” for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest diamonds that money can buy.
Very good cut: Reflects almost as much light as the ideal cut but for a lower price. A Diamonds on Fifth recommended buy.
Good cut: Reflects most of the light that enters the diamond. The cutter has chosen to create the largest possible diamond from the original rough crystal, rather than cutting extra weight off to create a smaller but higher quality diamond. Diamonds in this range offer an excellent cost-savings to customers who want to stay in a budget without sacrificing quality or beauty.
Fair cut: A fair cut diamond will not be as brilliant as a good cut, but is still considered a quality diamond.
Poor cut: This includes all diamonds that do not meet the performance standards of a fair cut. These diamonds are deep and narrow or shallow and wide and tend to lose most of the light out the sides and bottom. Diamonds on fifth does not carry diamonds with cut grades of poor.
Diamonds on Fifth carries an exquisite selection of certified ideal-cut diamonds. We do not carry diamonds with cut grades lower than good as these are generally too shallow or too deep to present an acceptable amount of brilliance.
Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
While a good quality round diamond with an ideal cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and good cuts might be just as attractive without costing as much. Diamonds on Fifth recommends that for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

Diamond Color

Diamond color has a significant impact on its value. The color scale ranges from D to Z, from colorless to light yellow, respectively. Because a colorless diamond, like a clear window, allows more light to pass through it than a colored diamond, colorless diamonds emit more sparkle and fire.

D:Absolutely colorless. The highest color grade, which is extremely rare.
E:Colorless. Minimal traces of color that can only be detected by an expert gemologist. Also a very rare diamond.
F:Colorless. Slight color, which can only be detected by an expert gemologist, but still, considered a “colorless” grade. A high quality diamond.
G-H:Near colorless. Color noticeable when compared to diamonds of better grades, but these grades offer excellent value.
I-K:Near colorless. Color slightly detectable. An excellent value.
L-M: Not carried at Diamonds on Fifth.
N-Z: Not carried at Diamonds on Fifth.

At Diamonds on Fifth we sell only the finest diamonds with color graded D-K. When buying a diamond, take into consideration that it is often very difficult to detect the difference between a colorless diamond (D-F) and a near colorless diamond (G-H). Diamonds graded better than K are colorless or near colorless and their color is typically undetectable to the unaided eye.
What is Fluorescence?
Fluorescence is a bluish glow that comes from a stone exposed to ultraviolet light. Under most lighting conditions, this fluorescence is not detectable to the eye. While most gemologists prefer diamonds without this effect, some people enjoy it. Medium fluorescence and strong fluorescence can have a positive effect on stones of low color (K and worse). On stones of higher color (D-G) strong or medium fluorescence can make a diamond appear cloudy and hazy, which undervalues them on the market. Diamonds with a strong or very strong fluorescence are priced slightly lower than other diamonds.
Color Chart
To compare the prices of diamonds with the same clarity grade and carat weight but differing color grades, see the chart below:

Price comparison: 1-1.09 carat VS1 round diamond
	Colorless		Near Colorless
	D	E	F		G	H	I	J	K
Ideal	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00
Very Good	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00
Good	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00
Fair	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00		$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00	$6,900.00

Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
While colorless stones are rarer and cost more, near colorless stones will look very much the same to the eye once set in jewelry. Choosing a G-K color instead of one in the higher DEF range will enable you to get a larger diamond for the money, without a substantial compromise in performance or beauty. If the diamond is to be set in white gold or platinum, Diamonds on Fifth recommends you aim a little higher on the scale than you would if setting it in yellow gold. Yellow gold disguises body color whereas white metal reveals it.
Fluorescence can add eye appeal to near colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Diamonds on Fifth does not recommend fluorescence to a colorless stone as it may reduce its value.

Diamond Clarity

A diamond’s clarity is rated by the number, size and position of its internal inclusions or flaws. The fewer the flaws, the more valuable the stone. Diamonds are classified according to their position on the GIA clarity scale, from FL (flawless) to I3 (imperfect, inclusions visible to the naked eye.)

FL: Flawless. No internal or external flaws. Very rare and very beautiful diamonds. IF: Internally Flawless. No internal flaws. Also very rare and beautiful diamonds. VVS1-VVS2: Very very slightly included: These inclusions are very difficult to see under 10x magnification. An excellent quality diamond. VS1-VS2: Very slightly included: Inclusions are not typically visible to the unaided eye. Less expensive than VVS1 or VVS2 grades. Also high quality diamonds. SI1-SI2: Slightly Included: These inclusions are visible under 10x magnification and may be visible with the unaided eye. A good value diamond. I1-I2-I3: Included: Inclusions and flaws visible to the naked eye.

The chart below compares the prices of diamonds with same carat weight, color, and cut grades.

Cut Grade	Depth %	Table %
FL	Flawless No internal or external flaws.	$6,900.00
IF	Internally Flawless No internal flaws.	$6,500.00
VVS1 VVS2	Very, very slightly included Very difficult to see inclusions under 10X magnification.	$6,200.00
VS1 VS2	Very, very slightly included Very different to see inclusions under 10X magnification.	$6,900.00
SI1 SI2	Very slightly included Easy to see inclusions under 10X magnification. May not be able to see inclusions with unaided eye.	$4,500.00
I1 I2 I3	Included Contains inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. Diamonds On Fifth carries only I1 grade.	$3,200.00

Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
Diamonds on Fifth recommends that you select an “eye-clean” diamond – one that has no inclusions, which are visible to the unaided eye. Diamonds of this clarity are much less expensive than IF do FL grade diamonds and typically do not contain visible inclusions that detract from the beauty of the diamond. To insure the highest clarity diamonds, Diamonds on Fifth carries only FL-I1 which represent some for the clearest diamonds available.

Diamond Carat

The weight or size of a diamond is measured in carats. A one-carat stone is equal in weight to one hundred smaller units called points. Carat weight is the most obvious factor in determining a diamond’s value, depending on the quality of its cut, clarity and color. Be aware that the price of a stone may jump after certain weight thresholds (usually at quarter-carat marks, such as .50 of .75 points.)
When considering the best carat weight, take into account her taste and style, the size of her finger, the size of your setting and your budget. For ideas and suggestions on how to choose the right engagement ring, read our Engagement Ring Guide.
In short, The “carat” is a unit of measurement used to weigh diamonds. Although a higher carat weight may increase its rarity and value, the cut color and clarity of the diamond greatly influence the price. Small stones can be more expensive than larger stones if the other 3 C’s, color, cut and clarity, rate highly. For more information read our education on diamond cut and clarity.
Diamonds on Fifth Recommendations
Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a .90 ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain levels, per carat prices increase substantially. By staying just under these so called magic marks, it is sometimes possible to get real price savings.. For instance, a well cut stone of .45 ct. might be quite less expensive than the same quality .50ct.. yet appear almost the same. The important magic marks are .50ct., .70ct, 1.00ct,1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Diamond Certificate

With every diamond purchased by Diamonds on Fifth, you will receive a diamond grading report, and/or a diamond dossier which is a diamond quality report. You can view these certificates on line. An appraisal document will also be provided with each diamond purchased. What is a Certificate? A diamond certificate provides an evaluation of the diamond’s characteristic. It is prepared by an independent third party laboratory and verifies that a diamond is genuine. It contains a complete quality report of the diamond with information on its shape, weight, color, clarity, fluorescence, measurements, proportions and overall finish. Diamonds on Fifth diamonds are graded by two of the most reputable and respected laboratories in the industry, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the European Gemological Laboratory (EGL). These two laboratories have a long history of strict, consistent and unbiased diamond grading. Every loose diamond sold by Diamonds on Fifth is thoroughly analyzed, inspected and graded by either of these independent laboratories.

GIA Certificate	GIA Dossier
Appraisal Document	EGL Certificate

Diamond Care

Diamonds are forever, but they must be kept clean to assure their most brilliant performance. Ordinary wear, including the use of hand lotions and hair care products and simple household work, can all cause a buildup that can leave a hazy film on your diamond. This buildup will eventually cause your brilliant diamond to appear dull.
Here are some simple but important tips on how to keep your diamond ring looking as great as it did when you first received it.
Wear
At Diamonds on Fifth we suggest you remove your ring during strenuous activities, when going into a swimming pool or hot tub or while taking part in sports.

Storage
Diamonds jewelry is best stored separately to avoid becoming scratched or damaged. Store your diamonds in individual jewelry cases, cloth pouches or in a fabric-lined jewelry box with separate dividers and compartments.
Cleaning
To clean your jewelry at home, be careful not to use abrasives that can dull the setting.
For at-home cleaning, we recommend mixing one part ammonia and four parts water. Scrub your diamond gently with a soft brush to loosen dirt. Avoid brushing the metal itself, as this may cause it to scratch. Pat dry with a lint-free cloth.
For a more professional cleaning, you can purchase one of the many types of small machines on the market that will clean any piece of jewelry that can be dipped in a liquid, in a matter of minutes. These consist of a metal cup that you fill with water and detergent. When the machine is turned on, a high-frequency motion creates the cleaning action. Click here to purchase this item.
Security
At Diamonds on Fifth we recommend a visit to a professional jeweler every six months to a year to have your mounting checked and tightened. During this time, the jeweler can also clean and polish your setting to look brand new.

Diamond Cost

Shopping for a diamond ring can be overwhelming. Here is some practical advice from Diamonds on Fifth to help you with your choices.

The engagement ring may be the single most important gift you will ever give. Budget is the key. The generally established rule is that a man should spend roughly two months salary on the engagement ring. Most men spend more than they plan to. We, at Diamonds on Fifth, recommend that you do not commit yourself to a set dollar amount before you familiarize yourself with all the options. There are small compromises that can be made to fit a nice looking diamond into almost any budget. In each of the sections on the four C’s we give you advice on getting the best for your money.

While a good quality round diamond with an ideal cut will certainly be very beautiful, very good and good cuts might be just as attractive without costing as much. Diamonds on Fifth recommends that for fancy shapes, good and very good cut grades will result in the best performance. Consider the length to width ratio of the diamond and the design of the mounting when selecting a fancy shape.

While colorless stones are rarer and cost more, near colorless stones will look very much the same to the eye once set in jewelry. Choosing a G-K color instead of one in the higher DEF range will enable you to get a larger diamond for the money, without a substantial compromise in performance or beauty. If the diamond is to be set in white gold or platinum, Diamonds on Fifth recommends you aim a little higher on the scale than you would if setting it in yellow gold. Yellow gold disguises body color whereas white metal reveals it.
Fluorescence can add eye appeal to near colorless diamonds and therefore be a benefit. Diamonds on Fifth does not recommend fluorescence to a colorless stone as it may reduce its value.


Diamonds on Fifth recommends that you select an “eye-clean” diamond – one that has no inclusions which are visible to the unaided eye. Diamonds of this clarity are much less expensive than IF o FL grade diamonds and typically do not contain visible inclusions that detract from the beauty of the diamond. To ensure the highest clarity diamonds, Diamonds on Fifth carries only FL-I1, which represent some for the clearest diamonds available.

Apparent diamond size varies depending on the carat weight and the proportioning of the cut. A 1.00ct stone that is cut a little too deep might actually be smaller looking than a .90 ct stone that is well proportioned. Also, at certain levels, per carat prices increase substantially. By staying just under these so called magic marks, it is sometimes possible to get real price savings.. For instance, a well cut stone of .45 ct. might be quite less expensive than the same quality .50ct.. yet appear almost the same. The important magic marks are .50ct., .70ct, 1.00ct,1.25ct, 1.50ct, 2.00ct, 3.00ct, 5.00ct.

Diamond Shapes

For starters, find out what shape she likes. Diamonds come in nine basic shapes. Click on each shape for detailed information.

Round	Princess	Marquise	Emerald	Radiant	Pear	Oval	Heart	Assher	Cushion

Princess The princess cut is a square cut with sharp edges. It is the best choice among fancy cut diamonds for overall brilliance and fire. The princess cut utilizes most of the shape of the original rough diamond and the weight loss from cutting is low. It can therefore be more appealing in price than a comparative round cut of the same weight. Princess-cut diamonds can vary greatly in how square or rectangular they are. To find the dimension of the princess you want, see the length to width ratio below.
For princess shape to appear more square look for a length to width ratio to be equal or less than 1:1.10. If you like the look of rectangular shape took for length to width ratios greater than 1.10: 1.
Emerald
Emerald cuts have a sleek and elegant look. The emerald cut is rectangular with cut corners and it has a step cut. When choosing the emerald a higher quality is preferred because its cut makes inclusions more noticeable than with other cuts. Emerald can vary greatly in how rectangular they are. To choose the shape you want see the chart below.
The classic emerald cut has a length to width ratio of approximately 1.35:1. In recent years, the square emerald cut has also become increasingly popular.
Marquise
The marquise cut is shaped like a boat and looks beautiful when set with round or pear shaped side stones. Women who want to create an illusion of longer, narrower fingers often choose the marquise. To find the dimension of marquise see the chart below for length to width ratios.
For a marquise-cut that is pleasing to the eye look for a length to width ratio between 1.75:2.25 For a rounder look choose a ration closer to 1:1.5.
Oval
The oval diamond has the dazzling brilliance of a round diamond. Its oval shape gives the flattering illusion of length to the finger and hand and is popular among women with shorter fingers. It can also accentuate long slender fingers. To choose the dimension you want, see the length to width ratio below.
The preferred and average size of an oval diamond that is pleasing to the eye is 1.50.
Asscher
This elegant and unique shape is nearly identical to the emerald cut, except that it is square. The asscher cut has a facet plan that draws the eye into the gemstone and gives it depth. All asscher cuts appear square and 1:1 ratio is preferred.
Cushion
The cushion cut has a square shape with rounded corners and sides. It is an antique-style diamond that was most popular about a century ago and has recently come back into fashion. Its old world femininity has an elegant appeal.
Squarer looking cushion cut diamonds with a ratio of 1:1 are preferred and tend to be more pleasing to the eye than rectangular ones.
Radiant
This is a square or rectangular shaped diamond that has clipped off corners like the emerald cut. It combines the elegance of the emerald cut diamond with the brilliance of the round diamond. The radiant cut diamond can vary in dimension. See the chart below to determine what the diamond will look like when viewed from above.
While a squarer radiant cut diamond with a ratio of less than 1.05:1 is most popular, some people prefer the rectangular look.
Heart
The ultimate symbol of love, the romantic heart shape has the advantage of having a nearly round pavilion which accents its beautiful brilliance.
A length to width ratio of between .90 and 1.15 is usually preferred and most pleasing to the eye.
Pear
This fancy teardrop shaped cut has a rounded end and a single point. It is extremely well suited for pendants and earrings. Many who like the look of round but want a fancy shape choose the pear shaped diamond. Longer pear shaped diamonds also have a slimming effect on fingers.
Most people prefer a length to width ratio between 1.50 to 1.75.