Diamond & Jewelry care tips and education: May 2010

Stone Setting Types Guide

Prong Setting

Prong setting, also known as claw setting, is the most common and popular method of setting stones into jewelry. It is the easiest as well as least expensive method of setting a gemstone. Also it allows optimal amount of light to pass through the gemstone, showing the gemstone at its maximum brilliance. This setting style is used for all types of jewelry items and mostly for solitaire engagement and bridal rings.

Pave Setting

The word pave (pronounced as ‘pa vay’) came from the French word ‘Pavé’ means pavement. Pave setting is a setting method in which the surface of a jewelry item appears to be covered with tiny diamonds. These same sized tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out on the surface of a jewelry item. Generally stones are positioned close together in a honeycomb pattern. Like the prong setting, pave setting also has small handmade claws, triangular in shape, which hold the stones low and very close so that they produce a carpet of brilliance across the entire surface of a jewelry item.
The use of multiple stones in pave setting forms an illusion of a bigger jewelry. Usually this setting is combined and presented with other stone settings to add more beauty and effect. This setting gives best results with diamonds and white gold.
Bezel Setting
Bezel setting is one of the oldest stone setting techniques and still very popular for certain benefits. Bezel is a thin metal strip, which is soldered with head that wraps around a gem to hold it in place. Bezel setting requires a proper balance in all the angles. It provides a very secure grip as well as protects gemstone’s edges, the girdle and the pavilion from scratches and chips. This setting can be used for any type of stone although mostly used for the fragile gemstones such as opal.
If the bezel setting does not surround the whole girdle of a gemstone and splits into two or more sections, covering just part of the gemstone, then this setting is known as half bezel or semi bezel.
Bezel setting is suitable for people with active lifestyles and it is considered the best for men because this setting method looks masculine. Bezel setting is generally used for all the types of jewelry items like earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.
Channel Setting

Channel setting is a setting technique in which gemstones are settled side-by-side as their girdles are held in between two parallel tracks on each metal wall. This setting gives impression of floating stones in the jewelry item and produces maximum amount of light as no metal appears in-between the gemstones. Structure of channel setting is very similar with English language letter ‘U’ in shape with two sidewalls and a bottom. A track is available on each side of the inner metal wall to contain gemstone girdle.
Channel setting protects the gemstones exceptionally well as none of the stone’s edges are exposed, and so that they are safe from hard knocks or general wear and tear. This setting is best suitable for diamonds with round, princess, emerald, oval, square, and baguette cuts and often used in jewelry items like eternity bands, rings and especially in tennis bracelets.
Invisible Setting

Invisible setting is a new and improved setting method that is considered as one of the most difficult setting methods. In this setting, the stones are positioned in such a manner so that metal is not visible from in-between stones that ultimately show appearance of uninterrupted and continuous surface. In this setting, stones are grooved just below the girdle and then those grooved stones are slid onto metal tracks to hold them in place.
This setting is appropriate only for multi-stone arrangement that usually attached in multiple rows. It looks similar to pave setting but gives better look and more brilliance, since no claws obstruct the light’s entry. Usually invisible setting is best suited with square princess cut diamonds, because the straight edges can be positioned very close to each other without leaving any space in-between.

Gemstone Setting Types

Closed and Open Settings

There are two basic types of gemstone settings: open settings and closed settings. Open settings are any type of setting that allows light to enter through the bottom of a faceted or transparent cabochon gemstone.

In a "closed setting" light can only enter the stone from the top. This type of setting is appropriate for opaque cabochon-cut stones and highly refractive faceted stones where light can enter through the crown and table of the stone and be reflected back to the observer from within.

Open Gem Setting Types

Prong Settings

Within the category of "open settings" or "à jour settings" there are several variations. The most common variety for faceted gemstones is a prong setting (below, left), with either 3 or 4 prongs that hold the stone in place. This type of setting exposes the maximum amount of light to the sides and bottom (pavilion).

Carré Settings

A Carré setting is where the stone is seated directly over a light well (above, right), and the stone is set by raising (hammering) four "spurs" with a "graver" tool.

Tension Settings

A "tension setting" uses the metal's natural tendency to "spring" back to its original position to hold the stone in place. The metal is spread apart, and the girdle of the stone is seated into small grooves in the inside surface of the metal. This type of setting requires special alloys of metal that are strong enough to create and withstand the necessary pressure to hold the stone firmly. Tension settings are only appropriate for very hard stones (Hardness of 9 to 10: diamond, ruby, sapphire, cz or moissanite) as the setting can exert up to 12,000 lbs. of pressure per square inch on the stone's girdle.

The tension-setting was developed in the 1960s by Professor Friedrich Becker of Niessing in Vreden, Germany. Metallurgist Steven Kretchmer of New York (ring at top, center) holds several recent patents for his advanced techniques in heat-treating alloys to increase strength and elasticity.

Frustum Settings

A Frustum, or "Hollow Cone" setting is a conical or tapered setting constructed from sheet metal. The stone's pavilion rests against the inside of the cone and the outer edge of the cone's lip is bet over the girdle to secure the stone. A frustum setting can be open or closed.

Closed Gem Setting Types

Variations of the closed setting are the "bezel (gypsy) setting, channel setting, cluster setting, Kundan setting, frustum setting, Pavé, and the seamless tube setting.

Bezel Settings

The oldest and most basic gemstone setting is the "Bezel", derived from the French word "Biseau" meaning chamfered. Used primarily to set cabochons, a vertical strip of metal is formed to encircle the stone, then soldered to a metal base. The stone is secured by pushing and bending the bezel towards the stone using a burnishing tool.

Channel Settings

Channel settings are primarily used to set faceted gemstones that are straight-sided, or quadrilateral in shape (baguette or princess cut). The stones are aligned in a channel, sitting girdle-to-girdle. step-cut stones can rest on a track giving a "keystone" effect. Matching stones that are cut to a uniform size for use in channel settings are called "calibré-cut," as in "Eternity Rings."

Pavé Settings

A Pavé Setting is a tight grouping of identically sized stones laid across a flat, or convex surface, from the French word for "paved." The stones are held in place using three to six raised beads per stone.

How to Evaluate Jewelry Setting before buying
Do you murmur the famous song of Nicole Kidman "Diamonds are a girl's best friend" and want to apply it to your girlfriend in her next birthday? Even if your pocket does not permit a huge budget for a larger diamond, don't worry. You can just walk into the famous gemstone mart and ask for the special illusion setting to elude your small diamond magnified to impress your girlfriend.
Before delving into the setting techniques you need to know the various popular settings and pros and cons for each of them. Prong Setting, Bezel Setting, Pave Setting, Channel Setting, Invisible Setting are the most common setting techniques for gemstone in your ornaments.

Prong Setting
Lets start with Prong Setting, the most common types of setting. The metal claws hold the gemstone and thus it is also known as Claw setting. Claws are bent over the edge to give the stone the extra security. The main advantage is as the claws occupy very small places; the most of the gemstone remain exposed glittering its own beauty. It's a faster methodology and can accommodate any size and shape. The claws normally vary between four and six. The prong setting is cheaper and its also convenient for maintaining or cleaning purpose. The major disadvantage of Prong setting is the claws are often prone to catch clothing mainly woolen types. Thin, flat claws can eventually break risking your precious gemstone. Again very large claws will reduce the glitter of the gemstone. V-shaped claws are desirable sometimes. You must check whether the stone is tightly fit under the claws at an even height and the edges of the claws are not broken or there should not be any empty space left between the claws and the gemstone. The claws should reach adequately inside the stone, not merely the edges. You must ensure that the claws are small enough to allow the gemstone to touch your skin directly. Solitaire engagement rings are the classic example of Prong settings.
Bezel Setting
The most ancient setting technique is Bezel Setting, which holds the gemstone just like a picture frame. Its like a collar of Gold or silver, which is almost wrapped around the gemstone. As you can apprehend how much careful, the tailor needs to be, while he is designing the collar of your shirt, the similar effort and attention is required for the Bezel Setting to fit the stone properly. Enough caution is to be taken so that the glittering effect of the stone is never reduced to due to the setting. Bezel Setting gives the designer more variety of options for its ultramodern look. A version of the Bezel Setting is called the Flush setting, where the gemstone is sunk into the mounting and the surface has got a window cut. You must check the evenness of the lip of the Bezel or Flush setting and any distortion or hitches need to be avoided. The final checking should be whether the gemstone has been fitted tightly from all sides. The wide open face of the gemstone allows the cleaning and maintaining work easily and the tiny edge of the collar protects the gemstone perfectly.
Here are some tricks. If a rim of white gold or platinum encircles a white diamond, the diamond appears larger. A golden yellow bezel setting throws yellow tints on a white diamond making a brilliant look of the ring.

Pave setting
The best way to compromise the quality with your lower budget is the Pave setting. Small pieces are paved inside the setting. Small pieces are carefully set with beads or grains of metals, usually gold or platinum to define a carpet of brilliance. This is mainly used for diamond rings, where the setting appears to be a continuous surface of diamonds. In this case, you must ensure the evenness of both the gemstone as well as the beads. If the beads or grains are not evenly spaced it is sure to reduce the glimmer. Diamonds engagement rings and earrings are often use Pave settings. Generally the small pieces like princess cut diamonds cost reasonably lesser than the larger stone, but the illusive appearance will enhance its value.
Channel setting
Now if you divert to the paradigm of the bracelet world, the first setting, which comes up in mind, is the Channel setting. The gemstones are held between the two tracks of the U-shaped formed by the ornamental metal. This is most useful for the square shaped gemstones, which can sit side by side. Sometimes additional claws are set to hold the gemstone tightly. It started with the eternity brands and tennis bracelets, now-a days a variety of engagement rings also use channel setting. Some famous shopping sites like eBay and MSN are offering various engagement rings using the channel settings.

Invisible setting
Do you want a complete visibility of the gemstone? Then you need the most costly and posh setting, the Invisible setting. The gemstone appears to float and no gold or metal is visible in the surface. Which mechanism shows this floating appearance? Gemstones are properly cut and shaped and a net of wires hold the stones tightly. Either the stones are grooved on the back or pins, bars are fitted externally to the gemstone to facilitate the wires. In a proper setting the gemstone will never wobble and you must ensure that the levels of the gemstones are perfect. The legendary art deco period of 1908 in Paris witnessed the usage of invisible settings by Van Cleef and Arpel. If you want a look and feel visit the Fancy Diamond Inc website to check the yellow gold Invisible setting Diamond ring.
There are some gemstone specific settings. Like illusion setting for diamond, where a mirror-like plate is used to enlarge the appearance of the small diamond. Simple colour mix and match also become useful for enhancing the glory of the jewel. Like light yellow diamond in gold will design the yellowish tint of the diamond where as the same diamond in any white-metal setting will appear whitish.

Stone Setting

1. Prong Setting
A gemstone is held in place by prongs (claws). Prongs may be jointed either with metal or gemstone seat made in Bezel Setting. Prongs appear in many shapes such as round, triangle, square, or heart etc. depending on jewelry designs. However, the thickness of each prong is normally equal to each other in one jewelry piece. One, two or multiple claws are extended over the stone and carved to make a resting place or seat for the stone. The number of prongs in one jewelry work depends on size, shape of gemstone, and the design. Four, six and eight prongs are commonly found in prong-set jewelry. In addition, four or six prongs are usually used in bigger size of stone that needs longer prongs. Several types of Prong Setting include:

- Prong Setting with four claws
- Shared Prong Setting: only one prong holding two gemstones
- Multi Prong Setting: six and eight prongs are mostly made in this type of setting

2. Pave setting
Pave setting is a setting of several tiny gemstones such as facet-cut gemstones, cabochon (stones cut in convex shape), or pearls placed so close together in the seat. Beads are normally used to hold the stone and at least three beads are used for a stone. Pave setting usually covered the entire metal or almost all of the metal. The stones may be placed in a row or in circle etc. The resting place for the stone may be in convex, curved or flat shape.

3. Channel Setting
Gemstones are placed in rows between rails or channels. The rail is short or long depending on the amount of stones used. Stones are normally in the same size either in facet-cut or round-cut shapes. Each stone is snugly held in the rail or channel which has been carved to secure the tip and the bottom of the stone. Each side of stones in a channel is squeezed by its adjacent stones.

Channel Setting can also have only a single stone in the channel such as Half Bezel

4. Bezel Setting
In Bezel Setting, a gemstone is held in the seat by the metal that encircles all sides of the stone and extends slightly above it. Bezel Setting is more commonly used with cabochon stones due to its opaque quality than transparent stones. This is because light cannot pass through the stone causing no sparkling or shinning effect. Sometimes, a small hole can be made at the bottom of the seat to allow more light to the stone.

5. Tube Setting
Tube setting has the same methods with Bezel Setting. Only that the metal in tube-set jewelry is taller and has a tube-like shape.

6. Flush Setting
A stone is held below the surface of the metal. The seat is no need to be done but a drill inside the metal. It is important that the outlet of the stone is not shown. Mostly, moderate-size or small-size of gemstone is used in Flush Setting. The stone is placed into a hole by tools. The metal surrounding the stone and the top of stone’s girdle are then blushed to secure the stone. Gems normally look smaller than they are in this setting method.

7. Tension Setting
A gemstone is held by an enormous strength of metal pressed on the stone. Platinum is commonly used in tension setting due to its hard quality. Other metals with minimum mixture of alloy are also good for Tension Setting. Medium or smaller stones are more suitable to be used in this setting.

8. Roman Setting
Gemstone is placed directly into the metal which acts as a seat itself. A cut on the metal is made around the stone to emphasize the stone seat.

9. Invisible Setting
Square-shape gemstones are placed in a row side by side with no space left between. The gems are laid so close that the metal in the bottom cannot be seen. Brilliant-cut stones are normally used in invisible setting method. The stones must be in the same size, similar or match color. The seat is also in a square shape placing altogether to support the stones which has also been cut in the same shape. This allows stones to be securely placed in their seats. Moreover, two cuts are made oppositely on each stone’s pavilion to have it fit perfectly in the seat. (process to be made at the goldsmith’s)

10. Illusion Setting
A gemstone is held either by prongs or beads but some space around the stone is left empty. Pave-setting in a radius line may be made to make the stone look bigger than it is.

11. Kundun Setting
The method of Kundun Setting is the same as in Bezel Setting only the process of the seat making is different. The seat in Kundun setting is normally made from pure metal which has softer quality. Gemstone can be pushed into the seat by pressing. The seat is usually put with highly light reflecting material before a transparent gem is placed. This method makes the stone more shinning. Colored gems, tin or pure silver are mostly used.

12. Back Setting
Gemstone is placed at the back of the seat like in Prong Setting.INSIDE